Just less than 14 degrees north of the Equator, Bangkok is a tropical metropolis that is also one of the most traveler-friendly cities in Asia . A furious assault on the senses, the first things that impress many visitors are the heat, the congestion both on streets and sidewalks, the pollution inherent to rapid development, the squalor that accompanies a gaping chasm between rich and poor, and the irrepressible smiles of the Thais. Despite the sensationalized international news reports and first impressions, the city is surprisingly safe, more organized than it initially appears, and full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidity and warm temperature favor the growth of tropical plants - you'll find exotic orchids and delicious fruit everywhere. Thai cuisine is singular, justifiably famous, varied, and affordable. Bangkok , for many, represents the quintessential Asian capital. Saffron-robed monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architecture, spicy dishes, colourful markets, traffic jams, and the tropical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult to leave with lukewarm impressions of the city.

Bangkok (originally Bang Makok) was a small village on the banks of the Chao Phraya river, until a new capital was founded on the west bank (present-day Thonburi) after the fall of Ayutthaya . In 1782, King Rama I built a palace on the east bank (now Rattanakosin) and renamed the city as Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais -- the City of Angels (and much more: the full name is listed as the world's longest place name by the Guinness Book of Records; an English rendering goes like this: "Krung thep mahanakhon amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok pop noparatratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisnukarmprasit" -- "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn"). The original village has long since ceased to exist, but for some reason foreigners never caught on to the change. Sukhumvit Road is one of the longest roads in Thailand . Towards the west, it changes names twice to Ploenchit Rd and Rama I Rd , but to the east it runs all the way through Pattaya and the Cambodian border! The lowered-numbered sois are densely packed with shopping centers and hotels, while the upper sois are a popular residential area for resident expats and it boasts some of the best eateries, most fashionable shops and hippest clubs in town. The fleshpots of Soi Nana (in Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (between Soi 21, 23) are also just off Sukhumvit, as are plenty of more (and less) salubrious bars. Also, the sidewalks of Sukhumvit Road itself become a huge market carrying everything from luggage to fake Rolex watches, and then after midnight they turn into sidewalk cafes and bars.

The area is easily accessible on the BTS Skytrain's Sukhumvit line , which runs from the National Stadium through the Silom line interchange at Siam Square up to On Nut on Soi 71. The subway's Sukhumvit station interchanges with the Skytrain at Asok. The river boats running on the Saen Saeb canal , initially parallel to Sukhumvit but diverging northward as it goes east, provides a cheap alternative means of escaping the traffic jams, particularly if heading west towards Wat Saket (the Golden Mount) and the rest of the Rattanakosin area. One note when navigating addresses off Sukhumvit: sois on the north and south sides do not line up, so you will (for example) find Soi 33 opposite Soi 24 at BTS Phrom Phong.

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